Broad Peak
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| Traditional Chinese | 布洛阿特峰 | ||
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Broad Peak (Balti: ཕ༹ལ་ཆན་གངས་རི་།, romanized: Falchan Kangri, lit. 'Broad Peak'; Urdu: بروڈ پیک)[2] is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with 8,051 metres (26,414 ft) elevation above sea level. The first ascent of this mountain was in June 1957, accomplished by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl as part of an Austrian expedition.
Geography
[edit]Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif in Baltistan situated on the border of Pakistan and China.[1] It is located in the Karakoram mountain range, approximately eight kilometres (five miles) from K2. The peak's name aptly describes its physical characteristics, with a summit that extends over 1.5 kilometers (7⁄8 miles) in length, giving it the appearance of a "broad peak."[3]
Three of the mountain's five summits are eight-thousanders: Broad Peak (8051 m), Rocky Summit (8028 m), Broad Peak Central (8011 m), with Broad Peak North (7490 m), and Kharut Kangri (6942 m) being the other two peaks.[citation needed]
Etymology
[edit]The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Falchan Kangri is not used among the Balti people.[4] The English name was introduced in 1892 by the British explorer Martin Conway, in reference to the similarly named Breithorn in the Alps.[5]
Climbing history
[edit]The first ascent of Broad Peak was achieved between June 8 and 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). The first ascent took the West Spur and was accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high-altitude porters, or base camp support.[4]
In July 2007, an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak and retrieved the corpse of Markus Kronthaler, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over 8,000 metres.[6][7]
In 2008, French mountaineer Élisabeth Revol made solo ascents of Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II within 16 days and without the aid of supplemental oxygen.[8]
In the winter and summer of 2009, there were no summits. There was one winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was one fatality, Cristina Castagna.[9]
In the summer of 2012, five members of "Koroška 8000", a Slovenian team led by Gregor Lačen, summitted the mountain without supplementary oxygen or high-altitude porters. They established a route in deep snow from Camp 4 to the summit, used by seven additional climbers from other expeditions. All summitted on July 31, 2012.[10]
On March 5, 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek made the first winter ascent and conquered the mountain peak without oxygen during the winter. Broad Peak was the twelfth eight-thousander summited in wintertime and the tenth eight-thousander first summitted in winter by the Polish climbers.[11] During the descent, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski did not reach Camp 4 (at 7400 m) and were pronounced missing. On March 7, the head of the expedition Krzysztof Wielicki, said there are "no chances at all" of finding alive 58-year-old Maciej Berbeka and 27-year-old Tomasz Kowalski.[12] On March 8 both climbers were declared dead and the expedition was ended.[13][14]
In July 2013, a group of five Iranian climbers attempted to ascend through a new route from the southwestern face. Three of them — Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi — ascended successfully but during the descent all three of them were lost and declared dead.[15][16]
On July 23, 2016, Frenchman Antoine Girard's paraglider flight over Broad Peak was the first time a paraglider had flown above an 8,000-metre summit.[17][18][19]
On July 14, 2019, 17-year-old Shehroze Kashif from Pakistan became the youngest ever to summit this peak.[20]
Timeline
[edit]- 1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herrligkoffer of Germany on the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.[4]
- 1957 First ascent by an Austrian expedition.[21]
- 1982 Reinhold Messner summits.
- 1983 First ascent by a woman, Krystyna Palmowska.[22][23]
- 1984 Broad Peak climbed in one-day (solo) by Krzysztof Wielicki in 21.5 hours; the first one-day ascent of an 8000-meter peak.[24]
- 1988 March 6, Maciej Berbeka climbs to the 'Rocky Summit' (8028 m), becoming the first person to reach one of the summits of Broad Peak over 8000m during the winter.[25]
- 1992 On August 4, Enric Dalmau Ferré, Òscar Cadiach, Alberto Soncini and Lluís Ràfols were the first to reach the summit from the Chinese side.[26]
- 1994 On July 9, Carlos Carsolio reached the summit, establishing a new solo route now known as Route Carsolio.[27][28]
- 1997 On July 7, Anatoli Boukreev achieved a solo ascent.[29]
- 2013 On March 5, first winter ascent by Polish expedition.[30]
- 2013 July, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi of Iran ascended through a new route, named Route Iran.[citation needed]
- 2014 Hunza Expedition to Broad Peak made the summit on 23 July 2014, Karim Hayat reached to main summit and Naseer Uddin turned back from Rocky summit. Karim Hayat became the first person from his village who reached 8000 m.[citation needed]
- 2019 July 14, Shehroze Kashif at the age of 17 became the youngest ever to summit this peak. He also became the youngest Pakistani to reach this altitude.[20]
- 2019 July 26, Nirmal Purja summits Broad-Peak with his team 'Elite Exped', as part of his expedition to climb all 14 peaks exceeding 8000m in a record time of less than 7 months.
- 2023 Nirmal Purja and Migma G summit Broad Peak as part of an effort to climb all 14 8,000 meter peaks with supplemental oxygen.
Passes
[edit]Windy Gap is a 6,111-metre (20,049 ft)-high mountain pass 35°52′23″N 76°34′37″E / 35.87318°N 76.57692°E at east of K2, north of Broad Peak, and south of Skyang Kangri.
See also
[edit]- List of deaths on Broad Peak
- List of mountains in Pakistan
- Highest Mountains of the World
- List of Austrian mountaineers
References
[edit]- ^ a b c "Broad Peak". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2013-07-24.
- ^ "Broad Peak: 12th Highest Mountain in the World". About.com. Archived from the original on 2016-04-16. Retrieved 2011-08-20.
- ^ "Broad Peak". Peakware.com. Archived from the original on 2016-03-04. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
- ^ a b c "Broad Peak: Some background and History". Everest News. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
- ^ Richard Sale and John Cleare, Climbing the World's 14 Highest Mountains: The History of the 8, 000-Meter Peaks, The Mountaineers, 2000
- ^ „Broad Peak 2007“ Archived 2017-09-22 at the Wayback Machine Expedition in memoriam Markus Kronthaler, June to August 2007 (German)
- ^ "Highest-Altitude Body Recovery in History". Alpinist. 25 July 2007. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
- ^ "Portrait of Elisabeth Revol". BLUE ICE. 2017-01-04. Retrieved 2019-09-22.
- ^ "Broad Peak update: Cristina Castagna lost on descent from C4 - no summits confirmed yet". Explorer's Web. Archived from the original on 2021-04-17. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
- ^ "Koroska 8000 - Broad Peak". Climbing in Slovenia. Archived from the original on 2016-03-14. Retrieved 2016-03-14.
- ^ "Polish mountaineers make first winter ascent of Broad Peak". thenews.pl. 5 March 2013. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
- ^ "Head of expedition says no chance of finding alive 2 Polish climbers missing in Himalayas". Associated Press. 7 March 2013. Retrieved 2013-03-08.
- ^ "Broad Peak: all hope lost for Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski". Planetmountain. 8 March 2013. Retrieved 2013-03-09.
- ^ Griffin, Lindsay (2013). "Broad Peak (8,047m), first winter ascent and tragedy". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 18 February 2024.
- ^ "Iranian Broad Peak New Route: Complications on Descent". Explorer's Web. Archived from the original on 2021-04-17. Retrieved 2014-01-26.
- ^ "Rescue attempts for Iranian climbers".
- ^ "Antoine Girard breaks 8,100m in Karakoram - Cross Country Magazine – In the Core since 1988". xcmag.com. 26 July 2016. Retrieved 30 June 2018.
- ^ Antoine Girard (1 August 2016). "Broad Peak". Archived from the original on 2021-12-21. Retrieved 30 June 2018 – via YouTube.
- ^ "Antoine Girard - Objectif X-Alps 2017". www.antoinegirard.fr. Retrieved 30 June 2018.
- ^ a b Rizvi, Raza (2019-07-20). "17-Year-Old Becomes the Youngest Pakistani to Summit 8000m Mountain". Retrieved 2019-09-23.
- ^ "First ascent". broadpeak.org. Retrieved 2013-07-24.
- ^ "Krystyna Palmowska o zdobyciu Broad Peak" [Krystyna Palmowska on reaching Broad Peak: we got hot on this mountain] (in Polish). July 2013. Retrieved 2020-12-05.
- ^ "Nanga Parbat, First Ladies-only Ascent". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 1986. Retrieved 2020-12-05.
- ^ All 14 Eight-Thousanders. Mountaineers Books. 1999. p. 144. ISBN 978-0-89886-660-5.
- ^ Martin, Laura (13 September 2022). "The True Story of Netflix's 'Broad Peak': What Happened To Maciej Berbeka?". Esquire. Retrieved 18 February 2024.
- ^ "Kurt Diemberger". 3 August 2017. Retrieved 2020-12-05.
- ^ Carsolio, Carlos (1995). "On the Brink on Broad Peak". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. Retrieved 2020-12-14.
- ^ "Broad Peak 8047m Austrian Karakoram Expedition 1957". broadpeak.org. Retrieved 23 October 2017.
- ^ "Anatoli Boukreev Summits Fourth 8,000-meter Peak in 80 Days". Mountain Zone. Retrieved 2020-12-05.
- ^ "Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!". planetmountain.com. May 3, 2013. Retrieved 2013-07-24.
Further reading
[edit]- Richard Sale, Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK. ISBN 0-9538631-1-5
- Marcus Schmuck, Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
- Kurt Diemberger, Spirits of the Air, 1994. Mountaineers Books, ISBN 0-89886-408-9
- Hermann Buhl, Achttausand: Druber und Drunter, 1955, Munchen. Afterword by Kurt Diemberger describes the Broad Peak expedition.
- Zvezdnate noči (Starry Nights) by Dušan Jelinčič, ISBN 961-6387-75-8
- Anna Czerwińska Broad Peak'83 tylko dwie (Broad Peak'83 only two) "Sport i Turystyka", Warszawa 1989, ISBN 83-217-2658-5
- Jacek Hugo-Bader, Długi film o miłości. Powrót na Broad Peak, Polish published by Znak, Cracow 2014, ISBN 978-83-240-2993-8
External links
[edit]
- Broad Peak on Himalaya-Info.org (German)
- Broad Peak on Summitpost
- First Ascent: The official Website of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram expedition 1957 on BroadPeak.org
- Virtual Aerial Video of Broad Peak
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